Bookcase
Project
Details, Drawings & Layouts mentioned in this article can be
found Here
This
bookcase is relatively simple to build, yet will make an attractive
addition to your home. It features a large space for a TV set with
a shelf that slides out and swivels, three adjustable shelves, a
door that covers two shelves large enough to hold records, and crown
molding at the top.
This bookcase is constructed in five separate units: the carcass
or frame which is all A2, 3/4" red oak plywood, the face frame which
is solid 3/4" red oak, the molding, the door, and the TV shelf and
hardware.
This bookcase was built on the Shopsmith Mark V Model 510. The extra
large table system and extension table system is very handy when
working with such large pieces of wood. The special accessories
used are the Dado Package for 510 and the Shaper Package. The Shopsmith
4" Jointer was also used to smooth the solid oak edges.
1.
Cut the plywood to size. Begin by ripping the plywood lengthwise
into strips 15 3/4" wide. The extension table on the Mark V helps
support the heavy plywood for these long cuts, yet even with this
support, you should enlist the assistance of a helper or use a roller
stand and rear support table.
After
ripping the plywood, crosscut it to length. Follow the cutting instructions
in the list of materials.
2.
Cut the dados. Mark the position of your dados on the sides
(A, O). All of your dados will be 3/4" wide and one-half the thickness
of the plywood, or 3/8" deep, with some exceptions on the top (B)
and shelf divider (J).
Be
sure the machine is unplugged for your set-up. Carefully line up
the marks you made on the edge of the plywood with the Dado Blade.
Then crosscut your dados with one edge flat against your miter gauge.
This is a tricky procedure because furniture-grade oak plywood has
a very thin veneer on the outside that is susceptible to splitting
if it is not cut properly.
Set
your speed dial to "R". Make a cut that is only as deep as the veneer
thickness on the plywood. Then lower the table to final depth and
make a second cut at the same place. The Stop Collars (from the
lathe Tailstock) mounted on the table posts will set the final Dado
depth of cut.
The
large table system on the Mark V 510 allows you to crosscut or Dado
wide pieces with ease. If you are working with the Mark V Model
500, use the Front Table Extension to help support wide pieces as
you crosscut and Dado. The Rear Support Table, Roller Stands, a
Miter Gauge Extension or a Cross-Cut Sliding table will also help
provide additional stability.
Now
mark and cut the other dados on shelf divider (K), and fixed shelves
(G, N).
Mark
the dados on shelf divider (J). The dados on the button will be
on both sides of the piece, so mark them just 1/4" deep.
Mark
the Dado in the center of the top (B), but not the ones on the ends.
Cut these dados.
3.
Other dados and rabbets. Now that you have completed all the
3/4" dados, change the width of your blade to 3/8". As you can see
from the illustration of this Dado-Rabbet joint, the dados on the
ends of the top (B) are 3/8" wide, 3/8" deep, and 3/8" from the
end of the board. Mark and cut these dados.
The
L-shaped cuts on the top of sides (A, O) are rabbets. Use the same
3/8" adjustment on your Dado blade to cut them 3/8" deep right on
the ends of the boards. Notice that these cuts are on the opposite
side of the previously cut dados (A, O).
4.
Drillholes for brackets. Brown plastic shelf brackets are used
here for the adjustable shelves. They are available in hardware
stores and fit in 1/4" holes. Mark and drill you holes in the right
side (O), and shelf dividers (J, K). These holes are set in two
inches from the front and back, at 2" intervals up and down.
5. Finishing. At this stage, the finish is applied to the
plywood. The reason for finishing the unassembled boards is so you
can work on them while they lie flat and so the finish will not
run.
Put
masking tape on the ends of the boards that will be housed inside
dados. The joints will glue together better on bare wood.
6.
Glue up the carcass. For this, you will definitely require
the help of an assistant to provide extra hands while you assemble
the awkward pieces. Yellow wood glue is used.
Assemble
the bookcase dry first to be sure all the pieces fit. Set your clamps
and check for square. Then re-assemble it with glue.
Leave
out your adjustable shelves (F, H, M) and TV shelf (P) during the
glue up.
7.
Begin the face frame. Cut the left side (Q); right side (R),
top (S), and bottom (T). Do not cut the narrower, 3/4" molding strips
at this time. As you rip the long 96" pieces, use a helper or roller
stand to hold them level during the cuts.
8.
Joint the edges. Run the edges of your face frame pieces over
the Jointer to square them up and smooth them out. This will you
give a much smoother edge than you get from the table saw.
9.
Drill dowel holes. Set up your Mark V for the horizontal-boring
mode. Drill 3/8" holes in the top and bottom edges of the long,
96" side pieces (Q, R). Each joint will have two dowels. Measure
the spacing on them so they will fit into the ends of the 3" bottom
piece (T) and the 4" top piece (S). Drill the holes as shown in
illustration.
10.
Match the dowel positions. Place 2 3/8" dowel centers into the
holes at the bottom edge of side piece (Q). With a try square or
a combination square, line up the bottom piece (T). Push it against
the dowel centers and tap it with a mallet to mark the exact centers
of your dowel holes. Then cut corresponding dowel holes in the end
of your bottom piece. Repeat this process for each end of your top
(S) & bottom piece (T).
NOTE:
If you prefer, biscuit joints the Biscuit Joiner Attachment could
be substituted for the dowel joints suggested here.
11.
Glue up the outer frame. Glue the 3/8" dowels and edges of the
outer frame pieces where they will join. Clamp them together and
allow the glue to dry.
12.
Finish the frame. Follow the same procedures you followed earlier.
Finish all additional pieces similarly just prior to assembling
them.
13.
Attach the face frame. Use glue and small finishing nails (2"
long) and attach the outer face frame to the carcass. Drill pilot
holes into the frame so that the solid oak will not split.
14.
Shape the molding. Use the Shopsmith Shaper Package your Mark
V with a 1/2" Bead & Quarter Round Cutter. Round the edge of a long
piece of oak with the Quarter Round side of the cutter. Then turn
the piece over and round the other corner of the same edge.
After
you have completed shaping the edge, rip it on the table saw so
that it is 3/4" wide. You now have half-round molding. Shape and
cut enough molding strips to face all of your shelves and shelf
dividers, and both the front and sides of the TV shelf (P).
The
secret to shaping is to take shallow cuts, follow all the safety
guidelines, and experiment with some scrap wood to test the results.
Shaping is also mch easier with the DC3300 Dust Collection System,
which disposes of the chips just as they are being made.
15. Size the molding. Measure the shelf lengths after the
outer frame is attached and cut your 3/4" molding strips to length.
Chamfer
the ends of the molding. Set up your disc sander and tilt the table
to 45°. Lay a molding strip upside down against your miter gauge
and chamfer the end to add a little accent if you wish.
Since
the TV shelf (P) will have molding on the sides as well as the front,
the ends of the molding will have to be beveled at 45° to "frame"
the shelf on the front corners. Do not chamfer the ends of the TV
shelf molding.
16.
Attach the molding. After applying the finish to the molding,
nail the molding onto the front of the shelves. Remember to drill
pilot holes. Inset all of your finishing nails with a punch. Then
cover the holes with wood patch that is mixed with stain.
17.
TV shelf hardware. A combination shelf slide and lazy-susan
called a "TV Extension Slide" will hold your TV shelf (P), and eventually
your TV set. Attach the slide to the TV shelf (P) and fixed shelf
(N) with #8 3/4" screws.
18.
Crown Molding. With your shaper, you can create a crown molding
effect. This effect is achieved by shaping the edge of a wide piece
of oak with the Cove & Bead Cutter.
Then
flip the piece over and shape a corner on the opposite edge. After
the piece is shaped, rip one side on your table saw 3" wide and
the other side 1" wide. (The ripping is done after the shaping because
shaping is safer with wide pieces.)
Repeat
this process so that you will have two 3" wide and two 1" wide molding
strips, each 48" long.
All
of the molding pieces must be measured precisely and cut with 45°
bevels on the front corners. To avoid mistakes, we suggest clamping
each piece in place at the top of the bookcase and checking precisely
where the bevel cuts should go. Glue up each 3" and 1" molding combination
together. Line up the beveled edges, and then clamp them while the
glue dries.
Clamp
each 1" and 3" molding combination to the top of the bookcase. Line
up the corners carefully. Then drill pilot holes from the inside
of the bookcase and screw in #8 1 1/4" screws to secure the crown
molding.
19.
Make the door. This door is optional and hides the "record"
shelves. The vertical stiles and horizontal rails are made on the
shaper with the Complete Cabinet Set. The cutter is used in different
combinations and positions on the insides of the rails and stiles,
and on the ends of the rails. The Bead and Quarter Round Cutter
is used on the outsides of the pieces to round the outer edges on
the front only.
This
cutter kit takes some practice to perfect, so plan to spend time
experimenting on scrap wood before making the door. It is a challenge
to work out, but the appearance of a nice looking, door makes it
worth while.
Slide
a 1/4" oak plywood panel into the frame pieces. Glue and clamp the
pieces together - no dowels are necessary because of the way the
rails and stiles fit together.
Apply
your finish, add hinges, and attach the door to the bookcase.
Your
bookcase is now finished. Go celebrate. You deserve it.
Details, Drawings & Layouts mentioned in this article can be
found Here
LIST OF MATERIALS
Finised dimensions in inches.
Carcass:
3/4" A2 red oak plywood (two 4" x 8" sheets). Optional TV Shelf
requires another piece.
Piece
|
Description |
Size |
A.
|
Left
Side |
95-5/8
x 15-3/4 |
B.
|
Top |
44
x 15-3/4 |
C
|
Fixed
Shelf |
23-3/8
x 15-3/4 |
D
|
Fixed
Shelf |
19-5/8
x 15-3/4 |
E
|
Fixed
Shelf |
19-3/4
x 15-3/4 |
F
|
Adjustable
Shelf |
22-1/2
x 15-3/4 |
G
|
Fixed
Shelf |
43-1/4
x 15-3/4 |
H
|
Adjustable
Shelf |
15-1/2
x 15-3/4 |
I
|
Fixed
Shelf |
26-3/4
x 15-3/4 |
J
|
Shelf
Divider |
32-1/8
x 15-3/4 |
K
|
Shelf
Divider |
40-1/2
x 15-3/4 |
L
|
Shelf
Divider |
23
x 15-3/4 |
N
|
Adjustable
Shelf |
15-1/2
x 15-3/4 |
M
|
Fixed
Shelf |
43-1/4
x 15-3/4 |
O
|
Right
Side |
95-5/8
x 15-3/4 |
P
|
TV
Shelf (Optional) |
20
x 13-1/2 |
Face
Frame: Red Oak 96 x 12 x 3/4
Piece
|
Description |
Size |
Q
|
Left
Side |
96 x 2 |
R
|
Right
Side |
96
x 2 |
S
|
Top |
40
x 4 |
T
|
Bottom |
40
x 3 |
U
|
Shelf
Molding |
(Total)
3/4 x 3/4 x 380 |
V
|
Crown
Molding Base |
(Total)
3/4 x 1 x 96 |
W
|
Crown
Molding Face |
(Total)
3/4 x 3 x 96 |
Door:
Red Oak 3/4 x 9 x 48
Piece
|
Description |
Size |
X
|
Stile
(2) |
3/4
x 2-1/2 x 30-1/4 |
Y
|
Rail
(2) |
3/4
x 2-1/2 x 14-1/2 |
Z
|
Panel |
1/4
x 14-1/2 x 26-1/4 |
Crown
Molding: Red Oak 48 x 10 x 3/4 Cut to size after shaping.
Shelf
Molding : Red Oak 48 x 10 x 3/4 Cut to size after shaping
Door
Frame: Red Oak 48 x 6 x 3/4 Cut to size after shaping (refer
to drawing)
Door Panel: Red Oak Plywood 26 x 15 x 1/4
Hardware: Red Oak 48 x 6 x 3/4 Cut to size after shaping
(refer to drawing)
Qty
|
Description |
|
8
|
8
3/8" Dowels |
|
4
doz.
|
2"
Finishing Nails |
|
1
doz.
|
#8
1-1/4" Wood Screws |
|
2
doz.
|
#8
3/4" Wood Screws |
|
1
doz.
|
Plastic
Shelf Brackets |
|
2
|
Cabinet
Door Hinges w/Screws |
3
|
TV Extension Slide |
|
Cutting
Instructions : Rip
both sheets of plywood into 15 3/4" strips, 96" long. On the first
96" length, cut pieces B, F and I. On the second length, cut E,
J and K. On the third length cut C, G and L. On the fourth length
cut D, H, M and N. The two remaining 96" lengths will be for the
sides (A, O).
|